I get asked quite often "How did you figure that out?" or "Where did you learn all your skills?" I usually pause and stammer out an answer about sewing my whole life and teaching myself new techniques. But I've never liked that answer as it doesn't really tell you just HOW I got so good.

I've recently discovered you become GREAT at a specific skill through the process of perfecting the basics. First you learn beginning techniques, the tools used, and the general lingo. What is a grainline or a selvedge? You learn how to press and become familiar with basic pattern shapes.

Next you move beyond simple steps and language to more specific techniques. You see that there is more to sewing than taking a pattern, cutting the fabric and following the directions. You spend many hours studying these new steps and how they relate to the principal ones you've already mastered.

You learn to fit a pattern, insert boning, and sew tucks in petticoats. You gobble up any information that can help you sew faster and better. By the third stage you don't even think about the basics, you just do it. You study a fashion plate and know how to go about creating it. You see the pattern shapes and layers of trim.

As you master historical skills, you realize that your ability is repetition of fundamental techniques. A skirt will not hang straight if cut off grain. Finishing that 1890s ball gown can only be done with hand stitching (a very basic step).

So get a grasp of the fundamentals and watch your creations come alive. Achieve a deeper understanding of elementary techniques and you will have mastered them. And when all else stumps you in those advanced stages of sewing, return to the fundamental procedures to get you back on track.

Here are 5 basics to get you started:

1. Get organized! Arrange/gather all your supplies for your current project. This includes all fabrics, interlinings, trims and notions such as piping cord, thread, hooks and eyes, boning. Organization is the key to achieving your goal.


2. Grainlines -The grain is the lengthwise weave of fabric. The grainline runs parallel to the selvedge (factory finished edge) of the fabric. Cutting patterns on the straight of grain is crucial for a garment to hang correctly on the body. Remember to measure EVERY pattern piece's grainline marking to the selvedge/fold before cutting your fabric. When making piping, cut only on the true bias (45°). Do not cheat and cut on the straight or on a slight bias. It will not look good.


3. DO NOT ever sew over pins. This will quickly dull your machine needle and weaken your pins. Also, the risk of eye injury increases greatly. Why risk loosing your sight for a costume?


4. Review ALL sewing instructions BEFORE beginning a project (you may even have to rewrite them yourself).On a road trip it's important to know how to get to your destination. Read over your map and brush up on those techniques you need so when you get to that step your work will turn out beautifully.


5. The Basic Thread Set: black, white, cream, navy. You can sew most anything with these colors. If you want to expand, add a basic red, medium yellow and forest green. When in doubt on thread color - choose a darker hue than your fabric.

And there they are...some basics to get you on the way to becoming that master dressmaker.

© 2008 Brookwaite Enterprises and Cloak & Corset